In the heart of the Amazon, a unique story unfolds, where the bitter robusta coffee, once overlooked, is now thriving in the face of a global climate crisis. This narrative is not just about coffee; it's a tale of resilience, innovation, and the intricate dance between nature and human ingenuity. As the world grapples with the challenges of a warming planet, Brazil's indigenous communities are not just surviving but thriving, offering a glimpse into a sustainable future for coffee production.
A Bitter Harvest
The Paiter Suruí community, located in the western Amazon, made a pivotal decision in 1981. With the land cleared of invaders, they chose to nurture the coffee plantations left behind by colonizers. This decision was not without controversy; some destroyed the coffee due to the trauma of contact with the non-indigenous world, while others chose to preserve the trees. Today, those that survived are a testament to the community's resilience and their commitment to the environment.
Celeste Paytxayeb Suruí, a renowned indigenous barista and coffee producer, embodies this spirit. Her award-winning 'Amazonian robusta' coffee, grown in the Brazilian state of Rondônia, is a symbol of hope. The Suruí families, working on small coffee plantations, have created a thriving ecosystem where coffee and nature coexist harmoniously. The abundant rain and hot temperatures in Rondônia, resembling those of the Congo basin, have made robusta coffee flourish.
A Bitter Reputation
Robusta coffee, with its bitter taste, has long been associated with lower quality. Often used in cheap blends alongside the 'tastier' arabica, robusta has been overlooked. However, researchers are working to change this perception. Improving robusta's quality is not just a matter of taste but also of climate adaptation. As temperatures rise, robusta's ability to thrive in higher temperatures makes it a critical player in meeting global demand.
The climate crisis is not just a distant threat; it's a reality for Latin America's coffee producers. Brazil, the world's largest producer, now endures 70 more hot days a year. High temperatures place coffee plants under stress, reducing their productive potential. This is affecting coffee plantations worldwide, as most are located within the same latitudes. Global coffee production has fallen short of expectations since 2021, leading to depleted stocks and rising prices.
A Robust Future
In response to these challenges, experts and farmers are increasing efforts to innovate. At Embrapa, Brazil's federal agricultural research corporation, researchers have increased robusta's productivity roughly fivefold over two decades. They are now testing 64 new crossings, selecting trees for higher temperature and drought tolerance, as well as better flavor. Harvest and post-harvest care are also crucial; ripe beans, properly washed and dried, can significantly enhance quality.
The work has paid off for 10,000 coffee farms in the 'Forests of Rondônia' region, most of them small family farms cultivating an average of 3.3 hectares of coffee. About 10% of the farmers produce fine robusta. Research shows that coffee plants benefit from being near forests, which provide high humidity and stable temperatures, as well as natural pollinators and pest control.
A Sustainable Example
Near the city of Cacoal, the Bento family has been setting a sustainable example. On their 12-hectare farm, they produce high-quality robusta from plant to cup, including their own roaster and serving coffee to tourists. They have won the state's coffee sustainability awards for implementing measures such as water-saving irrigation, adding 1,500 trees to protect water sources, and raising bees to support pollination. They also rotate coffee with corn, beans, and other crops to improve soil health.
A Collective Effort
However, there are concerns that higher coffee prices could lead to the replacement of small, sustainable family farms by large plantations that disregard forest protection. Neidinha Suruí, coordinator at Ethno-environmental Defence Association Kanindé, urges collective action. She emphasizes the need for government subsidies to farmers who protect the environment and for consumers to choose wisely when buying coffee.
Paytxayeb Suruí, who has represented a line of indigenous-produced coffee through a commercial brand since 2024, underscores the importance of recognizing and valuing the people inside the forest. She calls for a culture shift to develop a market for forest products such as Brazil nuts, açaí, cocoa, cupuaçu, and buriti, which represent only 0.4% of Brazil's GDP.
A Global Effort
Brazil is not alone in its quest for a robust future for coffee producers. The nonprofit World Coffee Research (WCR) launched a robusta network in November, including six countries: Vietnam, Ghana, India, Indonesia, Rwanda, and Uganda. By testing coffee trees across many countries and climates, researchers aim to understand how they perform under a wide range of conditions, preparing for the variability farmers will face as the climate changes.
In conclusion, the story of robusta coffee in the Amazon is a testament to human resilience and innovation in the face of a global climate crisis. As the world grapples with the challenges of a warming planet, the Paiter Suruí community and others like them offer a glimpse into a sustainable future for coffee production. It's a bitter harvest, but one that holds the promise of a robust future.
